Big Apple and Big Ivy

On a recent trip to Connecticut for my good friend Brian’s wedding, I took a few side trips. As expected, most of my vacation side trips are generally food related; and in my mind, the locales to which I paid a visit during these side trips are virtually essential stop offs for any serious food tourist.


Side Trip #1
I’m sure that if you’re reading this blog, it’s because you love food and ergo, you know of Anthony Bourdain. Over the past four or five years, few people in the media have made more of an impact on the phenomenon of food tourism than Tony. He, of course, is a chef and author turned travel host of Travel Channels’ runaway hit “No Reservations”. In addition, his writings and television programs have had a huge impact on me personally, in shaping the way I look at food, and in my transformation into a food tourist and a culinary adventurer.

Those of you who are familiar with Tony’s work and Tony’s life probably know where I’m going with this. I paid a visit to his last know place of employment before ditching the life of a chef for the life of a television personality. I took in a meal at Manhattan’s best known brasserie, “Les Halles”.

Just to clear up a few ambiguities, Bourdain does not own Les Halles, nor has he ever owned Les Halles. He was however the chef there for a number of years, and the cover of his breakout book on life in the culinary industry, Kitchen Confidential, bears a photo of him posed in front of the restaurant’s Park Avenue location. But for all the fanfare, Tony was never more than an employee. Naturally, this hasn’t stopped Les Halles from capitalizing on their most famous former employee’s buzz and momentum. A quick trip to their website will demonstrate just what I mean. But I don’t blame them. If the potential for good publicity and good press is out there, they’re fools for not seizing upon it.

I think the first thing a visitor notices as one walks into the place, is that the restaurant is much, MUCH smaller than it appears on television. The whole phenomenon of the camera causing people and objects to appear larger than in real life is no myth. Despite it’s relatively modest size, it has a very comfortable atmosphere, and the management has painstakingly made every effort to make the décor resemble an authentic Paris Brasserie. Right up to the fact that they couldn’t give a damn how their guests are dressed. What’s that? You just got off the train in jeans, sneakers, and a soccer jersey (like me)? No problem. Let us show you to your table!

The menu at Les Halles focuses on traditional French cuisine and nothing else. So don’t show up expecting an experimental molecular gastronomy tasting menu, or a pan-Asian fusion meal. . What you should expect (and you will receive) is some very, very authentic French cuisine. The restaurant’s signature dishes are the typically French steak-frites type dishes (steak and fries, for those of you not in the know). The difference is that they use American beef and not European beef, so the quality of the meat is far, far superior to anything that you might find on the Eastern side of the Atlantic .

I ordered the seared foie gras as a starter, and then I went out on a limb and chose the cassoulet with a side of their famous frites. Foie gras, for those of you who don’t know much about it, literally means “Fat Liver” in French. It is a sectioning of the liver of a goose or a duck that has been force-fed grain prior to slaughter. The forced-feeding causes the liver to swell and take on different taste and texture characteristics . French cuisine is famous for it, and it is an amazing delicacy. My nine-year-old son loves seared foie gras. Now before you start going off on how the process of force-feeding birds is inhumane or barbaric, let me assure you that there have been objective recent scientific studies that prove that the geese and ducks raised for foie gras suffer little discomfort, and enthusiastically participate in the forced feeding. I’m truly serious about this. These birds do not have a gag reflex, so when the feeding funnel is placed into their gullet, they don’t choke or feel much discomfort. Plus the process is similar to a natural process of gorging that wild ducks and geese instinctively perform prior to the migratory seasons. I have seen television shows regarding foie gras where flocks of birds will crowd around their feeder during feeding time, eagerly awaiting their turn with the funnel. And indeed there are much more inhumane processes that animals suffer in commercial food production than what foie gras birds endure.

So if you think this is an evil, vile concept, vote with your wallet and simply don’t eat it. That’s your right as a consumer. But if you think I’m a bad person for eating foie gras, and a cretin and liar for defending it, all I can say is this: Please. please, please. Do yourself a favor and do some objective research on the matter. Those of us who eat it aren‘t going to stop eating it simply because you‘re complaining about us eating it. The fact that we eat foie gras bothers you far greater than your complaining bothers us. If anything, all your collective media outcries have actually created greater interest in foie gras among foodies, and probably caused more people in this country to try it and more people to consume it regularly than ever before. Talk about hoisting one’s self with one’s own petard. Go fire bomb a Starbucks if you really want to be a force for good in the world. Because what’s worse: force-feeding birds prior to their already imminent slaughter; or peddling shitty, over-priced coffee made from beans from war-torn countries that use child-soldiers?   Adding insult to injury, Starbucks also forces the consumer to speak a fake, pretentious, made-up language with their ass-clown, hipster staff when one places one's order.  I bet all those poor schmucks who majored in Esperanto in college 30 years ago, and subsequently got hosed, wish that they'd gotten together and opened a coffee house chain.  But I digress......

Anyhoo, the foie gras that I was served at Les Halles was perfectly seared. The quality of the cut of liver that they brought out was “good” to “above-average”, but not the best that I had ever had. But it was certainly fulfilling. A note to the consumer: foie gras is quite expensive. My 2 or 3 ounce portion cost $18.95, and this is very much a standard price. Considering that this was an establishment in Manhattan , I thought the price was very, very reasonable.

My main course was a nice-sized plate of cassoulet and a side of frites. Yes, I understand that I previously stated that Les Halles was best known for their beef. But I’m a sucker for cassoulet, so my curiosity got the better of me. For those readers who are unfamiliar with cassoulet, it is a slow cooked bean casserole from Southern France . It generally combines duck, sausage, lamb, and pork with said beans. If done the traditional way, it can take days to ready the ingredients prior it’s eventual four hour cook time. My wife and I will sometimes make it in Fall or Winter on a Sunday afternoon. It’s one of my absolute favorites things to eat, and it is absolutely magical. So obviously, I couldn’t break away from it’s gravitational pull when I saw it on the menu. Sadly, Les Halles’ cassoulet was merely adequate. But in their defense, I could tell that the methods that they used were of the quick-preparation variation, so the beans were not infused with all of the complexities from the various other ingredients. Also, some of the meat ingredients (specifically the duck) were rather average in quality. It was very filling, just somewhat unfulfilling with regards to my expectations. The next time I visit Les Halles, I’ll most certainly order the beef.

The frites, however, were pretty damn amazing. I know Tony always prided himself on the fact that Les Halles’ frites were top notch, so I felt that it was essential that I ordered them. As strange as it sounds to the non-foodie, the frites were probably the highlight of the meal. And that’s not to take away from the rest of the meal; the fries were simply THAT good. They were done the traditional way: fresh cut potatoes blanched, then fried twice. They were crisp (almost crunchy) on the outside, and nice and soft in the middle. They were not overly salted, which was a welcomed change to all the over-salted, MSG ladened fries that are all too common today. I had a significant portion of my fries remaining after I finished my cassoulet, and despite the fact that I was already quite full, I forced myself to eat every last one. Quite the food orgy on my part. It made for a very bloated train ride back to Connecticut, and the desire to simply go to my hotel room and hibernate for a while.

Overall, I really enjoyed Les Halles as a dining experience. It offers an interesting and casual atmosphere, decent service, prices that aren’t out of line, and very satisfying cuisine. I look forward to dropping by again during my next visit to Manhattan .
STRONGLY RECOMENDED
　

Side Trip #2
With far, far too many dinning choices in New York Metropolitan area to chose from, I decided to change things up and shift from haute cuisine to more mundane cuisine.

Aside from being the home of Yale University; New Haven, Connecticut is also known as the birthplace of the hamburger. Louis’ Lunch (pronounced “Loo-ees”), situated on Crown Street, lays claim to the invention of said hamburger. And this is no hyperbole-filled claim, mind you. Louis’ Lunch has been in business since 1895, as they proudly display on the front of their building; and a number of years ago, they went as far as successfully registering their claim with the Library of Congress as the creators, inventors, and originators of the “hamburger sandwich”. How’s that for dispelling myth?

If you are looking to visit Louis’ Lunch, bear in mind that they maintain some rather odd hours (closed Sunday and Monday; closing before 4pm Tuesday through Thursday; Open until 2am Friday and Saturday). My guess is, they have structured their hours of operation around college life, and the late-night drinking crowd.

I arrived on a Friday, about 5 minutes after the stroke of noon, and there was already a healthy line-up of patrons spilling out of the tiny restaurant, onto the sidewalk that runs along Crown Street . After I had made it inside and placed my order, one of the patrons explained that this was a typical sight. He also said that to-go orders could be called in beforehand. The wait is longer than one might expect. The line moves somewhat slowly, and once you place your order, you take a seat and wait for you name to be called off. After placing my order, it probably took a good 25 or 30 minutes for my food to arrive. But that’s standard. There were many first timers dinning at Louis’ the day I visited, but no one seemed deterred or miffed by the long wait. One of the regulars that sat off to the side, waiting for his order cheerfully chirped in his working class New Haven accent, “If I was in a hurry and didn’t care I’d go to Mc Donald’s. But I do care, so I don’t mind the wait.”. I got the impression that the staff at Louis’ (and their regular customers, for that matter), are extremely proud of the little chunk of food anachronism that they’re a part of. And I think that’s a big part of Louis’ charm and allure. Also, be sure to bring cash, as that they do not accept credit or debit cards. As you’ll see below, Louis’ lunch takes an old school approach to their burgers.

Louis’ menu is very basic. They offer one sandwich, and one sandwich only on their menu. That of course is the “hamburger sandwich”. As far as how you order your burger, it can be prepared a few different ways. Plain (nothing on it), with cheese, with onion, or with tomato, or a random combination of any of these. Or you can simply order “cheese works” and get everything previously listed on your burger. I ordered two burgers. One “plain works, the other “cheese works”. Fries are nowhere to be found at Louis’, but one can instead purchase potato chips or potato salad. They also have a nice selection of Snapple and locally produced Foxon Park brand sodas, which are made with real cane sugar, not high fructose corn syrup. Louis’ uses a great deal of minimalism in their approach to burgers. The meat is very lean, and it’s cooked in small antique gas flame-broilers that have been in use since the establishment began making the hamburger sandwich around 1900. Also, Louis’ doesn’t employ a great of seasoning in the preparation of their burgers, so those of you are accustomed to an over-salted, MSG-smattered fast food burger, you might be somewhat disappointed. Condiments are non-existent. The only thing that gets put on your burger is what your order on it (i.e. cheese, tomato, or onion). Not a single bottle of ketchup or mustard is to be found anywhere on the premises; and that’s Louis’ philosophy and approach to their product. They want you to taste the beef and not the condiments or toppings. One final note about their burgers. They do not use actual hamburger buns. Instead, they lightly toast thinly sliced white bakery bread in place of a bun.

What's old is new again.....Okay, I'm lazy. That's NOT new.

This next blog is brought to you by an uninspired Sunday morning, and a looming trip to the grocery store to shop for food for my starving children.  No time to write today folks.  Sorry.  So I decided to recycle a piece I posted a few years ago on the present-day-internet-ghost-town known as Myspace.  It's a review I did of Disney's "Ratatoullie" when it first came out.  I'll be in NYC next week for a wedding, so I promise to make it up to you, by writting a nice review of Anthony Bourdain's old haunt, Les Halles.  Until then, chew on this!

Yesterday afternoon I took the little monsters to see the new Disney/Pixar film “Ratatouille” (pronounced “rat-a-too-ee”).  There had already been quite a bit of favorable buzz about this film, but I was most excited over the fact that it was about my most favorite substance to abuse: food.  The film’s protagonist, a rat named “Remy” (voiced by Patton Oswalt), rejects the trappings of rat-dom and instead aspires to be a chef.  All of this is to the dismay of both his fellow rats and humans alike.  In pure cartoon anti-realism he attains this dream with the help of a human counter-part, and lives happily ever after.  Although Pixar’s animation was absolutely breathtaking in this film, the greatest accolades go to writer/director Brad Bird (“The Incredibles”, “Iron Giant”, etc…).  And this film undoubtedly delivers that self-same punch that Bird was able to bring to bear when he made “The Incredibles” and “Iron Giant”.    The climax/conclusion of this film is beyond fulfilling, and showcases the villain getting his soul back in a scene more touching than when the Grinch’s heart grows ten sizes, and he thusly saves Christmas. 

Maybe I’m biased and overly-gushy about this film because I’m food-addicted.  But if heroin addicts have “Trainspotting”; food addicts like me certainly have “Ratatouille”. There are a few spots where the film’s pace is a little show for children, and I think anyone under the age of four might be periodically bored.  Surprisingly, alcohol use (i.e. wine consuption) is a sometimes backdrop in few of the scenes, which I found a bit odd for a film targeted to children, but after all, the theme of the movie is French cuisine.  I don’t think a European audience would flinch at this fact.  Some folks who are against alcohol use on moral grounds might be put off by this tiny aspect of the film.  As many of you know, wine is a ubiquitous part of the weekend meals that The Wife and I concoct, so it was kind of funny when my son leaned over during one of the scenes and whispered, “Dad, what kind of wine is that?”.  I only hope that we’ve set the stage for him to eventually be a connoisseur and not a drunk.  Since I’m on the topic of wine, there are a few cameos in the film, made by some of Bordeaux’s heaviest hitters in winemaking (i.e. Chateau Le Tour and Cheval Blanc).  Cheval Blanc last made an appearance on-film in “Sideways” as Miles’ trophy wine.  Anyhoo, I like how Brad Bird takes his time between films, and doesn’t rush projects to theaters too soon.  Because what he serves up in “Ratatouille” is very much representative of the lightning-in-a-bottle that he’s found with past works.  Cheers to him!  Cheers to anyone who goes to see this soon-to-be-classic!

Chew on that!
T.S.G.